The Story of the Grenadine Tie

Few accessories in menswear are as versatile and enduring as the grenadine tie. Worn by diplomats, style icons, and cinematic heroes alike, the grenadine tie brings depth to an outfit and has long been favoured for its understated elegance. Though its place in the modern wardrobe is more occasional than everyday, it remains one of the few neckties that feels appropriate in a wide range of settings.

The history of the grenadine tie

The origins of the grenadine weave are not entirely clear. Its structure — an open, airy fabric created by twisting warp threads around a single weft — resembles the English bobbinet tulle, a gauze used in lace-making as early as the 18th century. Some associate its name with the Spanish city of Granada, but this appears to be coincidental.

What distinguishes grenadine today is not only the weave itself, but where and how it is produced.

Photo courtesy of Fermo Fossati	Photo courtesy of Fermo Fossati

The tradition of grenadine weaving is now centred in Como, Italy, where historic mills such as Fermo Fossati and Seteria Bianchi continue to weave grenadine on the same wooden shuttle looms used in the early 1900s. The process involves twisting two warp yarns around the weft, producing a fabric that is both supple and durable. This technique gives grenadine its distinctive texture and subtle dimensionality. Each tie woven at Fossati and Bianchi represents a continuation of this tradition, showcasing the enduring craftsmanship of two of Italy’s most respected silk makers.

From formalwear to cultural icon

Although grenadine cloth was originally developed for lightweight clothing in warm climates, it proved exceptionally well suited for neckwear. The weave offers visual interest without the formality of a printed pattern, and the resulting fabric ties cleanly while retaining a defined shape.

The grenadine tie rose to prominence in the mid-20th century, with Sean Connery frequently wearing dark grenadine ties as James Bond. The style became associated with a particular kind of masculine dress: restrained, polished, and deliberate.

Over time, the grenadine tie found a place in the wardrobes of political figures, actors, and those drawn to classic menswear. Its appeal lies not in ornament, but in the integrity of the cloth and the character it brings to a suit and shirt.

Garza Grossa and Garza Fina

Grenadine ties are woven in two primary styles: Garza Grossa and Garza Fina.

Garza Grossa, or “large gauze”, features a pronounced weave with visible texture. It produces a slightly larger knot and tends to pair well with more casual tailoring and seasonal fabrics such as tweed or brushed cotton.

Garza Fina, or “fine gauze”, is smoother and tighter in construction. From a distance, it may appear almost solid, making it particularly suitable for formal business attire or understated evening dress.

Both weaves share the core attributes of grenadine: durability, structure, and a degree of visual texture that complements rather than competes with the rest of an outfit.

Construction and character

Most grenadine ties are made from silk, though the defining characteristic is the weave rather than the fibre. Silk provides the right balance of body and pliancy — firm enough to hold a knot, yet soft enough to create the natural roll and drape that distinguishes a well-made tie.

Unlike knitted ties, which also offer texture but often appear casual or slouchy, grenadine ties maintain a sharper silhouette and a cleaner line. They are often finished with light interlining, untipped edges, and hand-rolled blades.

What sets the grenadine tie apart is its ability to introduce texture into an ensemble without relying on bold colours or patterns. Its texture makes it an effective companion to patterned shirts or bold tailoring, adding depth without competing for attention.

How to wear the grenadine tie

A navy Garza Fina grenadine is an excellent companion to grey worsted tailoring — adding interest without disrupting the balance of an otherwise classic look. In a brown Garza Grossa, the tie softens a dark blazer or complements textured fabrics like flannel or corduroy.

Colours such as dark green, burgundy, and navy work well throughout the year, while lighter shades — such as ivory, light grey, or olive — can brighten summer outfits without appearing out of place.

One of the reasons for the tie’s enduring popularity is its ability to coordinate easily. Thanks to its textured surface, it rarely clashes with patterned shirts or jackets, and it brings a subtle point of contrast to even the most minimal outfit.

For those assembling a focused wardrobe, the grenadine tie is a sensible place to begin. A dark navy Garza Fina pairs easily with foundational pieces such as a grey suit, navy sport coat, or light blue shirt. From there, one might add brown tones or a striped grenadine for variation.

Woven from silk on traditional wooden looms, grenadine ties are durable and well suited to regular wear. With proper care, they hold their shape and continue to perform for years.