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Article: Made-to-Measure Shirts: Handmade in Italy

Collar styles for made to measure shirts

Made-to-Measure Shirts: Handmade in Italy

Our made-to-measure shirts are made in a small workshop in Naples, a region known for its tradition of soft tailoring and refined handwork. Whether ordered in-store through our made-to-measure service or online via our simplified made-to-order system, each shirt reflects a commitment to quality, fit, and long-term wear.

A Pattern Cut for You

Every shirt is cut by hand, with patterns carefully aligned across the shoulder, sleeves, and placket. The made-to-measure service includes full measurement and fit analysis, resulting in a personal pattern based on the customer’s build and posture. The made-to-order system allows for fit adjustments to a standard block, including modifications to neck size, sleeve length, and body width.

Shirt being cut by hand

Stitching and Finishing Techniques

Single-needle stitching is used throughout—also known as French seams. This method produces clean, flat seams and eliminates raw edges. Each shirt is sewn with 18 stitches per inch, a fine gauge that improves both durability and finish.

Hand-Sewn Details

Shirts are cut by hand and constructed with either three or six hand-sewn operations:

  • 3-step shirts: hand-sewn armholes, buttons and gussets
  • 6-step shirts: all of the above, plus hand-attached collar, hand-sewn buttonholes, and hand-sewn bartacks (travetto) at the sleeve placket

These techniques allow for more natural shaping, greater flexibility through movement, and subtle visual refinement.

Seamstress sewing buttonholes by hand

Style Options

A focused set of customisation choices allows each made-to-measure shirt to reflect the wearer’s preferences in both structure and style.

Collar

Options include both formal and informal styles—from structured spread collars to soft one-piece collars. Interlining weights can be specified, and non-fused constructions are available.

Cuffs

Single and double cuff designs are offered, selected to complement the chosen collar style.

Front

Shirts can be made with a clean (French) front, placket front, or covered front. Pleated fronts are available for eveningwear.

Back

Options include a plain back, box pleat, twin knife pleats, or traditional shirring at the yoke.

Initials

Monogramming is available in either block or cursive script, sewn by hand in a range of thread colours.

Made to measure shirt with handmade initials
Made to measure shirt with button down collar

Fabric Selection and Final Details

Fabrics are ordered cut-to-length from Thomas Mason, Canclini, and Grandi & Rubinelli, allowing for a broader and regularly updated selection. Choices range from crisp poplins and sturdy oxfords to zephyr, denim, and seasonal weaves.

Shirts are finished with genuine Australian mother-of-pearl buttons, cut from the inner shell of the pearl oyster. These are harder-wearing than plastic alternatives and possess a subtle, natural lustre.

Mother of pearl buttons

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