When developing our trouser collection, we looked at various schools of tailoring for inspiration. There are endless possibilities in terms of model, design and characteristics. The starting point was to develop a classic trouser with modern wearability.
Back in the day, bespoke tailors would cut their customers’ trousers – and sport coats – with a clear sense of proportion and drape. The most noticeable difference between this traditional cut and contemporary fashion is probably the waist.
We prefer a high rise to sit at the natural waist. A high waist accentuates the narrowest part of the body and visually lengthens the legs, leading to a more masculine sense of proportion. Moreover, high waist trousers look better with tailoring, as the top of the waistband is close to the button stance of a sport coat.
With opted for single reverse pleats that allow for a clean lined drape to the hem. A benefit of pleats is that they provide greater comfort when sitting down. The trousers are slightly tapered towards the bottom, giving them an elegant yet modern appearance.
The hems of our trousers are left unfinished, so that you can have them tailored to your own sartorial preference. Our recommendation is turn-ups of 5 centimetres (2 inches). A turn-up adds a bit of extra weight at the bottom of the trousers, improving the drape of the leg.
The side adjusters eliminate the need for a belt, resulting in a clean line and silhouette. Our buckles come from the same British company that is also trusted by some of the famous tailors on Savile Row.
Our trousers feature a comfortable curtained waistband made from pure cotton.
Another detail worthy of note is the traditional button fly. This is rarely used outside bespoke tailoring and is a true nod to the classical trousers made by Albert Besnard more than a century ago.
Fabric & Materials
We aim to use only natural materials in our products, therefore genuine horn was an obvious choice for the buttons. We opted for a classic shape made from high quality buffalo horn. The horn was slightly buffed to achieve a clean and elegant look.
We source our fabrics from different mills in England and Italy. Our tailored trouser is currently available in two fabrics: a cotton twill woven by Brisbane Moss and a woolen flannel woven by Vitale Barberis Canonico.